Eric Asimov's Review of THIRSTBARAVIN in this week's New York Times

All the dishes were beautifully executed, whether earthy green lentil salad with lardons, hard-boiled eggs in a tangy house-made mayonnaise, a juicy chicken leg coated in mustard or a creamy, malty chocolate pot de crème. They match perfectly with the wines, which run the gamut from challenging to merely excellent.